/mydir/myTeX/tex
I had previously defined a custom
TEXMFLOCAL = /mydir/myTeX
in my texmf.cnf (followed by "texhash"). If I replace this with the standard
TEXMFLOCAL = /usr/share/texmf-local
(which, incidentally, is empty) everything becomes super zippy again. This loses me my local class files, so I now put a soft link in for TEXMFHOME:
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cd /home/user/texmf ; ln -s /mydir/myTeX/tex
This puts the class files in my LaTeX path, *and* gives me fast response, which proves (I think) that there's nothing obviously funny about /mydir/myTeX/tex or its contents.
So, all is well - except that I have no idea why changing TEXMFLOCAL, which has served me well for many years, is now broke.
Note. incidentally, that the pdflatex issue is reflected by (and may be linked to) kpsewhich behaviour - in the "slow" configuration of a custom TEXMFLOCAL, commands such as
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kpsewhich -var-value=TEXMFHOME
Any ideas? Bug, feature, or (most probably) user error?